Expert Range Repair
Our technicians have completed more than 113,000 range repairs since 2020.
From our service data
We analysed our last 12 months of range repairs where a replacement part was needed. These are the ones that came up most often.
| Repair | 12 months | Parts | Labour |
|---|---|---|---|
| Element switches and regulatorsA burner that won't heat or hold a setting while the rest work fine | ~5,350 | $70–$195 | $115–$145 |
| Oven control boardOven won't heat, won't hold temperature, or throws an error code | ~1,700 | $155–$295 | $125–$130 |
| Oven heating elementOven heats slowly, unevenly, or not at all | ~1,050 | $85–$210 | $110–$125 |
| Surface elementsOne cooktop element dead or stuck on high | ~950 | $140–$225 | $105–$115 |
| Sensors and thermostatsOven temperature reads right but bakes wrong | ~700 | $40–$80 | $105–$115 |
Repair counts and parts prices come from our own completed jobs over the last 12 months, not from an industry estimate. Ranked by how often each repair needed a replacement part. Many service calls are resolved without one.
Both figures are typical. Individual jobs can run higher, and parts prices vary by model, supplier and availability. You get a written quote before any repair work begins.
Prices exclude the $129.95 diagnostic visit fee and taxes.
Remove food debris from gas ports and electric coil connections so heat and ignition stay consistent.
Baked-on spills are far harder to remove and can affect element performance over time.
A worn oven door seal lets heat escape, so cooking takes longer and results turn out uneven.
Abrasive cleaners can damage knobs, igniters, and glass surfaces; stick to manufacturer-approved products.
A gas burner should burn a steady blue; yellow or uneven flames are worth addressing early.
A yearly check catches worn igniters, loose connections, or calibration drift before they cause a breakdown.
Clicking with no flame, or no click at all, points to a specific ignition fault. Learn what's likely behind it.
Causes
An oven that won't reach temperature usually points to one of two failed heating elements. Here's how to tell which.
Causes
FAQ
Most popular questions we get asked.
Self-clean locks the door on purpose. The cycle runs the cavity past 800°F, and the latch stays engaged for 30 to 90 minutes afterward while everything cools down. On some models it is closer to two hours. If the oven is stone cold and the door still will not release, the latch itself has seized, and that is a service call. The cycle is safe to use, but we suggest using it sparingly. Self-clean is behind a good share of the control board and door latch repairs we get called out for.
Two things decide it. What is broken, and how old the range is. If the repair comes to more than roughly half the price of a comparable new range, and you are past the halfway point of its expected life, replacing makes more sense. Figure 12 to 15 years for a typical range with normal care. A new one lands somewhere between $800 and $2,500. Parts for the repairs we do most often run $40 to $295, before labour and diagnosis. Cheap repairs are worth doing at any age. The expensive end is a judgment call, and your technician can give you a straight answer once the fault is confirmed.
Some drift is normal. An oven cycles above and below the set point rather than holding one steady number, so a 20 or 30 degree swing is not a fault, and most control panels let you recalibrate that much yourself. A gap of 50°F or more is different. If recalibrating does not close it, or the oven cooks unevenly regardless of what you set, you are looking at a temperature sensor on the way out. No setting fixes that.
Orange flicker is usually dust or cleaning residue burning off. Minerals from a humidifier do the same thing. Food debris in the burner ports is the most common cause of all, and cleaning the ports out normally restores a steady blue flame. A flame that stays yellow or orange after cleaning is a different matter. It means the gas is not burning completely, and incomplete combustion can produce carbon monoxide. Shut the burner off and have it looked at. Do the same immediately if you smell gas.
Residual heat is normal. A modern oven holds temperature well, and the cooling fan will often run 30 to 45 minutes after you have shut it off. Glowing elements are not normal. Neither is an oven that is clearly still heating or stays dangerously hot for hours on end. Kill the breaker and get it looked at. That pattern usually means a relay stuck closed on the control board, and a relay that will not open is a real fire risk.
Yes. Our factory-trained technicians work on all major brands including Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, Maytag, Electrolux, Bosch, Miele, and more.
National Coverage, Local Expertise
Our technicians are factory-trained on the brands they service.
90-day parts and labour warranty
Factory-trained professionals
Book online any time, or call us Monday to Friday, 7am to 5pm MT / 9am to 7pm ET
Serving communities across five provinces
The Boreal Repair Process
It's straightforward, you book, we take care of the rest.
Choose your appliance type, describe the issue, and pick a time that works
Your technician will inspect your appliance and diagnose the problem.
We fix the issue, clean up, and back every repair with a 90-day parts and labour warranty.